Clergymane

A drycleaner on Bab Touma street in the Christian quarter of Damascus specialises in "Chemises Clergymane" (sic)

Nasrallah uncovered

A rare picture, spotted in Hama, of Sheikh Hassan Nasrallah without his glasses on. Presumably the Aryan children now don't recognise him and that's why they're crying.

Brands in the wrong hands...

Seen recently in the souk in Aleppo

Hotel Baron, Aleppo

It may have been in decline for the last 60 years, but I am pleased to report that the legendary Hotel Baron still has vintage-suitcase-loads of atmosphere, and is well worth a stay. It may be your last chance as the current owner is unmarried, 55, and has no children or plans for the hotel.... They give you a very good breakfast, the bar is still charming (just tell them to put on Nina Simone and switch off Bryan Adams), and the welcome still warm. The historical, non-renovated rooms still have old furniture and are comfortable and clean.

icing on the cake

Almost two months after the ceasefire in Lebanon, a Christian cake shop in Damascus was still making cakes iced like a Hezbollah flag.

Prosphora

In the Christian quarter of Damascus a couple of bakers make only prosphora or communion breads, stamped with Byzantine stamp called an artos.

Licorice water

Licorice water or suss is sold all over Damascus at Ramadan in plastic bags. At 5.30 when Muslims break their fast, they drink licorice water and eat a date before tucking into a huge meal.